Yay! Finally! I have been wanting to post this tutorial for a while. The zippered slash pocket is the pocket I use the most; almost every single purse I make has one!
Zippers don’t have to be scary. My secret: wonder-tape! Wonder-tape is double sided, wash away tape. It can be sewn through and won’t gum up your needle. Plus you don’t have to pin! Yay! Wonder-Tape is truly a life-saver!
Now, onto the tutorial.
1.) Start with the pattern piece where you want your zipper to be installed. Measure your zipper, or decided how wide you wish your pocket to be. Also, you need to decide how deep you want your pocket to be.
2.) Take your zipper width and add 1″. This is your new width. Take your desired depth for your pocket and double this number. Now add 1″. This is your new depth. Cut a pocket piece with these new dimensions. Fuse a piece of light weight interfacing to the wrong side of the pocket if desired.
My zipper is 12″ long. I want my pocket to be 10″ deep. So I need to cut my pocket piece 13″ x 21″.
3.) Fold in half and press. Directly below the crease, on the WRONG side of the pocket fabric, draw a rectangle 5/8″ wide x the length of your zipper (12″ in my case) making sure to center width wise. Draw a line in the middle of the rectangle.
4.) Pin the pocket piece onto your pattern piece. Line up the rectangle where you want your zipper to be. Pin with the RIGHT side of the pocket piece DOWN (on top of the right side of the pattern piece).
5.) Stitch around the outer rectangle.
6.) Carefully cut (through all layers) along the middle of the rectangle. Clip a “v” to each corner.
7.) Pull pocket fabric through hole. Press edges down.
8.) Place a piece of Wonder-Tape along each edge of the zipper.
9.) Carefully center the zipper underneath the pressed edges of the hole. Press down with your fingers to secure.
10.) Edgestitch along the pressed edges of the rectangle, stitching all the way around the rectangle.
11.) On the back side of the pattern piece, fold the fabric down to match the right sides of the pocket piece. Pin together. (Don’t stress out if the edges don’t match exactly; this is the wrong side and won’t show!) Be careful not to pull the top piece of the pocket down too much as this can cause some distortion on the outside of the pocket.
12.) Stitch around the edges of the folded pocket piece.